{"id":677,"date":"2018-03-10T14:43:38","date_gmt":"2018-03-10T06:43:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/nusmountaineering.com\/?page_id=677"},"modified":"2018-03-10T14:43:38","modified_gmt":"2018-03-10T06:43:38","slug":"knots-hitches-prussiks","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/knots-hitches-prussiks\/","title":{"rendered":"Knots, Hitches, Prusiks"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Knots, hitches and prusiks are foundational to mountaineering skills. There is a wide variety of them that can be deployed in various situations, each with their own functionalities, advantages and drawbacks.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>These are the knots covered in MIR&#8217;s TMC technical syllabus. They will be used frequently throughout the programme. TMC Team Members should be confident in tying them and familiar with their specifications.<br><b><br><\/b>Check out\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/www.animatedknots.com\/\">Animated Knots<\/a>\u00a0for step by step guides on how to tie these knots, or follow along MIR&#8217;s videos below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em><span style=\"color:#ff6600;\">The Knots<\/span><\/em><br><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-post-677 wp-image-727\" src=\"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/knotss.jpg\" alt=\"knotss.jpg\" width=\"1500\" height=\"700\"><\/h1>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i>Double of Figure 8 Retraced\/On Bight<\/i><\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Basic tie-in knot when climbing.<\/li><li>Retraced version is useful for creating a secure loop at the end of the rope.<\/li><li>Used on a bight to create a loop in the middle of the rope. Useful as an intermediate anchor point or to clip in when roping-up.<\/li><li>The knot becomes difficult to untie when shock-loaded.<\/li><li>Ensure that knot is clean before loading.<\/li><li>Primarily used in anchor systems.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n<p>[wpvideo QHU2FLLA]<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i> [wpvideo aKFGBQ3K]<\/i><\/span><\/h2>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i>Alpine Butterfly<\/i><\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Useful to create a loop in the middle of a rope, especially during roping up.<\/li><li>More stable than Bowline on a bight or Figure 8 Loop.<\/li><li>Remains reasonably easy to undo even after heavy load.<\/li><li>Load is evenly spread between the Loop, and both ends of the loop, hence it is able to isolate any damage section of the rope if need be.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n<p>[wpvideo bVCUNZG3]<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i>Bowline<\/i><\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Creates a secure loop around an object, and to anchor onto it.<\/li><li>Used as a rock climbing tie- in knot (Yosemite Variant).<\/li><li>Emergency Harness (triple bowline).<\/li><li>One-handed Safety Harness (one-handed technique).<\/li><li>Anchor knot (when climbing).<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n<p>[wpvideo Ij1d1ZLu]<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i>Water Knot<\/i><\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Joins two ends of a webbing or sling.<\/li><li>Used to make a closed loop from a single piece of unsewn webbing.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i>Sheet Bend<\/i><\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Used to tie two ropes of different diameter.<\/li><li>Binds tightly when loaded.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i>Double Fisherman<\/i><\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Used to tie two ends of Prusik cord together.<\/li><li>Secures to ends of ropes, and binds tightly when loaded.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n<p>[wpvideo sEgOrJsQ]<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em><span style=\"color:#ff6600;\">The Hitches<\/span><\/em><br><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-post-677 wp-image-728\" src=\"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/hitch.jpg\" alt=\"hitch.jpg\" width=\"1500\" height=\"700\"><\/h1>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i>Girth Hitch<\/i><\/span><\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>The Girth hitch attaches a sling to your harness or to another rope or carabiner.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>[wpvideo P1rNVj2y] [wpvideo Jcv6Y2tc][wpvideo SK4iBVQO]<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-background has-dark-gray-background-color has-dark-gray-color is-style-default\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i><strong>Clove Hitch<\/strong><\/i><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video aligncenter wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-videopress\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"VideoPress Video Player\" aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='500' height='281' src='https:\/\/video.wordpress.com\/embed\/NlYz6IH4?loop=1&amp;preloadContent=metadata&amp;hd=0&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen allow='clipboard-write'><\/iframe><script src='https:\/\/v0.wordpress.com\/js\/next\/videopress-iframe.js?m=1739540970'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption><em>Clove Hitch, Loops Method<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video aligncenter wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-videopress\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"VideoPress Video Player\" aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='500' height='281' src='https:\/\/video.wordpress.com\/embed\/zF86NHx9?preloadContent=metadata&amp;hd=0&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen allow='clipboard-write'><\/iframe><script src='https:\/\/v0.wordpress.com\/js\/next\/videopress-iframe.js?m=1739540970'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption><em>Clove Hitch, Retrace Method<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video aligncenter wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-videopress\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"VideoPress Video Player\" aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='500' height='281' src='https:\/\/video.wordpress.com\/embed\/ZakPzkrm?preloadContent=metadata&amp;hd=0&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen allow='clipboard-write'><\/iframe><script src='https:\/\/v0.wordpress.com\/js\/next\/videopress-iframe.js?m=1739540970'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption><em>Clove Hitch, One-Handed<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><thead><tr><th>Use<\/th><th>Pros<\/th><th>Cons<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Quick knot for clipping in to a locking carabiner.<\/td><td>Can be tied easily with both hands using loops or retrace method, or with one hand.<\/td><td>May slip, so back up knot should be considered when knot is utilised.<\/td><\/tr><tr><td> Attach a fixed rope or sling to an object.<\/td><td>Knots makes it easy to adjust the length of the rope between climber and anchor without unclipping the rope from the carabiner.<\/td><td><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><figcaption>(Reference: <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineers.org\/books\/books\/mountaineering-the-freedom-of-the-hills-9th-edition-1\">The Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition<\/a><\/em>, The Mountaineers Books)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li>Dress the knot by tightening both strands firmly. If the knot is tied correctly, it will stop the pull when loaded.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-background has-dark-gray-background-color has-dark-gray-color is-style-default\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><span><i><strong>Munter Hitch<\/strong><\/i><\/span><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video aligncenter wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-videopress\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"VideoPress Video Player\" aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='500' height='281' src='https:\/\/video.wordpress.com\/embed\/9WoXJnDr?loop=1&amp;preloadContent=metadata&amp;hd=0&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen allow='clipboard-write'><\/iframe><script src='https:\/\/v0.wordpress.com\/js\/next\/videopress-iframe.js?m=1739540970'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption><em>Tying a Munter Hitch<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video aligncenter wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-videopress\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"VideoPress Video Player\" aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='500' height='281' src='https:\/\/video.wordpress.com\/embed\/1QrdfAny?loop=1&amp;preloadContent=metadata&amp;hd=0&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen allow='clipboard-write'><\/iframe><script src='https:\/\/v0.wordpress.com\/js\/next\/videopress-iframe.js?m=1739540970'><\/script>\n<\/div><figcaption><em>Tying a Munter with one hand<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Munter Hitch, aka <em><span style=\"color:#666666;\" class=\"has-inline-color\">halbnmastwurfsicherung<\/span><\/em>, aka &#8220;half clove-hitch belay&#8221;, aka HMS (hence, HMS carabiner). This hitch is versatile and introduces friction into the system, which gives rise to its applications. The following table highlights these.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table aligncenter\"><table><thead><tr><th>Use<\/th><th>Pros<\/th><th>Cons<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Can be used as substitute for dedicated belay device<\/td><td>Hitch is bidirectional (rope can be fed out of the carabiner or rope can be pulled back through)<\/td><td>Can put twists in rope, especially if used repeatedly<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Used in belaying, abseiling, crevasse rescue.<\/td><td>Lots of friction for controlling heavy loads, arrest falls.<\/td><td><\/td><\/tr><tr><td><\/td><td>Easy to set up<\/td><td><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><figcaption>(Reference: <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineers.org\/books\/books\/climbing-self-rescue\">Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations<\/a>,\u00a0<\/em>Andy Tyson &amp; Molly Loomis)<br>(Reference: <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineers.org\/books\/books\/mountaineering-the-freedom-of-the-hills-9th-edition-1\">The Freedom of the Hills, 9th Edition<\/a><\/em>, The Mountaineers Books)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-background has-dark-gray-background-color has-dark-gray-color is-style-wide\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em><span style=\"color:#ff6600;\">The Prusiks<\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n\n\n\n<p>Prusiks are a friction hitch or knot used to attach a loop of cord around a rope. They are utilised in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, rope rescue and zip-lining. The term Prusik is a name for both the loops of cord and the hitch, and the verb is &#8220;to prusik&#8221;. More casually, the term is used for any friction hitch or device that can grab a rope.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><span style=\"font-weight:400;\">Used in:<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\"><li><span style=\"font-weight:400;\">Ascending a fixed rope, such as climbing a steep slope<\/span><\/li><li><span style=\"font-weight:400;\">Crevasse rescue<\/span><\/li><li><span style=\"font-weight:400;\">Safety backup for abseiling<\/span><\/li><li><span style=\"font-weight:400;\">Emergency anchor point in the middle of a rope<\/span><\/li><li><span style=\"font-weight:400;\">Autolocking knot in a hauling system<\/span><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/03\/prusik.jpg\" alt=\"prusik.jpg\" class=\"wp-post-677 wp-image-729\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i><strong>Klemheist<\/strong><\/i><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-videopress\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"VideoPress Video Player\" aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='500' height='281' src='https:\/\/video.wordpress.com\/embed\/8j2eK7lN?loop=1&amp;preloadContent=metadata&amp;hd=0&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen allow='clipboard-write'><\/iframe><script src='https:\/\/v0.wordpress.com\/js\/next\/videopress-iframe.js?m=1739540970'><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table is-style-regular\"><table class=\"has-subtle-light-gray-background-color has-background\"><thead><tr><th>Use<\/th><th class=\"has-text-align-left\" data-align=\"left\">Pros<\/th><th>Cons<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Ascending and descending a line<\/td><td class=\"has-text-align-left\" data-align=\"left\">Moves up and down the line with greater ease than a Prusik<\/td><td>Grips best only in one direct (unidirectional)<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Grabbing the rope at a fixed point on the line<\/td><td class=\"has-text-align-left\" data-align=\"left\">Gripping strength is high, but not as strong as a Prusik<\/td><td>Use with caution in snowy conditions<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><\/td><td class=\"has-text-align-left\" data-align=\"left\">Sometimes able to release under load<\/td><td><\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><figcaption>(Reference: <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineers.org\/books\/books\/climbing-self-rescue\">Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations<\/a>,\u00a0<\/em>Andy Tyson &amp; Molly Loomis)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-background has-dark-gray-background-color has-dark-gray-color\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i><strong>Autoblock<\/strong><\/i><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-video wp-block-embed is-type-video is-provider-videopress\"><div class=\"wp-block-embed__wrapper\">\n<iframe title=\"VideoPress Video Player\" aria-label='VideoPress Video Player' width='500' height='281' src='https:\/\/video.wordpress.com\/embed\/NATvv6TL?loop=1&amp;preloadContent=metadata&amp;hd=0&amp;cover=1' frameborder='0' allowfullscreen allow='clipboard-write'><\/iframe><script src='https:\/\/v0.wordpress.com\/js\/next\/videopress-iframe.js?m=1739540970'><\/script>\n<\/div><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p style=\"line-height:1;\">Also known as the French Prusik, a variation of the Kleimheist Prusik using a carabiner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><thead><tr><th>Uses<\/th><th>Pros<\/th><th>Cones<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Ascending and descending a line<\/td><td>Very quick to tie<\/td><td>Weakest gripping strength of the three hitches<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Grabbing the rope at a fixed point on the line<\/td><td>Moves up and down the line with greater ease than a <em>Classic Prusik<\/em><\/td><td>Sometimes slow to grab; needs to be set carefully<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Somewhat releasable hitch<\/td><td>Can be loaded in either direction<\/td><td>Use with caution in snowy conditions<\/td><\/tr><tr><td><\/td><td>Relatively easy to release under load<\/td><td>Abrupt load release<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><figcaption>(Reference: <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineers.org\/books\/books\/climbing-self-rescue\">Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations<\/a>,\u00a0<\/em>Andy Tyson &amp; Molly Loomis)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-background\" style=\"background-color:#4d4d4f;color:#4d4d4f;\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><span style=\"color:#993300;\"><i><strong>Classic Prusik<\/strong><\/i><\/span><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table><thead><tr><th>Use<\/th><th>Pros<\/th><th>Cons<\/th><\/tr><\/thead><tbody><tr><td>Ascending and descending a line<\/td><td>Can handle weight of very large loads without slipping<\/td><td>Once weighted, does not slide up and down the line as easily as other friction hitches<\/td><\/tr><tr><td>Grabbing the rope at a fixed point on the line<\/td><td>Can be loaded in either direction (bidirectional)<\/td><td>Very difficult to release under load<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><figcaption>(Reference: <em><a href=\"https:\/\/www.mountaineers.org\/books\/books\/climbing-self-rescue\">Climbing Self-Rescue: Improvising Solutions for Serious Situations<\/a>,\u00a0<\/em>Andy Tyson &amp; Molly Loomis)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-text-color has-background has-dark-gray-background-color has-dark-gray-color is-style-dots\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h1 class=\"has-text-align-center wp-block-heading\"><a href=\"http:\/\/nusmountaineeringcom.wordpress.com\/tmcsyllabus\/\">Back to Menu<\/a><\/h1>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Knots, hitches and prusiks are foundational to mountaineering skills. There is a wide variety of them that can be deployed in various situations, each with their own functionalities, advantages and drawbacks. These are the knots covered in MIR&#8217;s TMC technical syllabus. They will be used frequently throughout the programme. TMC Team Members should be confident [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_coblocks_attr":"","_coblocks_dimensions":"","_coblocks_responsive_height":"","_coblocks_accordion_ie_support":"","_cloudinary_featured_overwrite":false,"footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-677","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/677","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=677"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/677\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/nus-mir.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=677"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}